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Completely agree but would remove the requirement for the qualifying swaps being done within last 12 month - we have quite a number of members who do just several swaps a year or go dormant for several month (like i do). •
Separating swaps and sales in our Forum would be a very good idea, too.
Do you have 1945 dime (any mint) in XF or better? If yes, have a look at my swap list.
Bonjour à tous, •
J'ai ajouté dans mes doubles 40+ pièces “goutte” russes en argent de 1535 à ~1700 et indiqué une valeur d'échange pour chacun d'entre eux. •
Je voudrais les échanger contre des monnaies médiévales et/ou anciennes. •
I have in my swap list 40+ pieces of Russian silver wire coins, all attributed to particular monarch (czar) and in most cases attributed to particular mint and period. •
Willing to sell them or swap for other ancient/medieval coins. PM me if interested, pictures/scans are available upon request.
Merci Joe-breuille, j'apprécie vos informations.
A couple of friendly advises on how to avoid some frustration - it's not a bullet-proof strategy but may help a bit: •
1. Check how many of your coins the other collector may be interested in - for "common" coins I usually don't request a swap if this number is less than 50 •
2. Check another person's profile - what he/she is collecting and looking for •
3. Check his/her feedback to see when that person swapped last time (there is a lot of "dormant" accounts) •
4. Target people who are relatively new in Numista (let's arbitrarily say <2 years) and who actively swap •
5. Get a sense of the shipping cost of your potential partner - for example here in Canada the shipment is so damn expensive that I don't swap regular coin outside of US/Canada •
As I said it's not a "guarantied success recipe" but may help to some extent.
Looks like Old Mint (Старый денежный двор) 1701-1703 but can't say for sure
Quote: "Cerulean"Can opener, perhaps?You know - it might be the case. I should try to recreate it one day just for curiosity sake...
"Regular" collector opinion - grade XF-, fair price in a range of $35
Double-checked it with Charlton's catalog of Canadian commemorative coins - and yes, it's only the price of silver. Catalog also says: "Large quantities of these coins were issued and they are not redeemable by the government or by the banks" - so, it's rather a silver bullion, not a coin.
What bothers me a bit is that the coins look slightly circulated, especially 1891 - which shouldn't happen if it's an off-metal variant. Though it might me a result of "bag rubbing" if the metal is soft, pewter for example. Good luck with these definitely very interesting coins.
Quote: "DocGoss60"I misunderstood. Thought you were just accumulating silver. •
No problem. I am building my collection of circulation silver and decided to part with almost all my non-silver coins in order to afford some hard-to-find silver.
Was reading neilithicman's topic on unofficial and special use coins/tokens and realized that I have a set of 1965 Lundy puffins that I don't really need. Anyone wants it for US$100 + shipping? •
All three look unrealistically sharp like they were minted last week - which means they are (highly probably) modern copies
I have one like this •
bought it once at Royal Canadian Mint store in Ottawa and never used it. I also have a lot of small Canadian cents - some of them are in my swap list but majority is just sitting in my drawer...
Quote: "neilithicman"Just the PThan they are UNC (proofs are S) but I never saw them in boxes - in my experience, P and D used to came in dedicated envelopes sealed in cello (5 pieces P + 5 pieces D per set). As for price, I'd say 5 dollars per year (for both P and D), a bit more for the whole set.
Quote: "Frankyboy52"I have only one 1889 1 double and it is medal alignment. Thanks, than it seems to be more or less common...
I afraid damage is irreparable - even if your silversmith can chisel off/grind off the silver solder, the coin surface and lettering will look damaged
Portugal silver commemorative coins with denominations of 250, 500 and 1000 escudos were issued in 70x-80-90x and even in early 2000x and are marked in Numista catalog as "circulation commemorative coins" but my question is - have they ever really circulated? Anybody has seen them being accepted as regular coins? Or, despite of Numista designation they were intended purely for collectors and never meant to be in circulation? •
Thank you in advance
I have several pounds of Canadian cents from early 60x up to 2012 though they are not really junk but rather collectable coins. All demonetized.
Let's start from 3 kopek - the consensus is that the "altyn" (old name of 3 kopek coin ) was used as a "counting unit" in Russian principalities from 14th century. Initially, the purpose of it was to serve as a common denominator for different value currencies in those principalities and it was equal to 3 Novgorod kopek or 6 Moscow denga ("alty" in Tatar language means "six"). The coin with such denomination was first issued in 1654 and than, traditionally, until 1991. •
15 kopek coin has a traditional name "pyatialtynnyi" = "five altyn" and was introduced in 1760 as an intermediate coin between 10 kopek (too small) and 25 kopek (too big). Yes, from 1832 to 1841, 15 kopek was equal to 1 Polish Zloty (Poland at that time was a part of Russian empire and there were coins with both currencies on them) though it's a coincidence and has nothing to do with the origin of the (odd) 15 kopek denomination. &[...]
The earliest coin (Lydian electrum coin) dates back to around 700 BC ( seven hundred, not seven thousands!)
AU and it looks like it was slightly buffed/polished
Oggy, I can ask my friend in Ukraine if they are more easily available over there, I know he has a very nice one in his collection.
Looking for low quality silver coins from Austria (Habsburg), Hungary (Austo-Hungarian period), Germany (empire) and Russia (empire) from ~1850 to ~1915. Will take well worn, drilled or soldered coins provided that they are still recognizable. Preferably high face values. •
Will pay cash or swap for my UNC-BU-Proof modern Canadian or US silver.
Thanks for the information. It doesn't look like a forgery and it has been in my collection for a while (I am looking for the good hands to pass it to). •
Quote: "JoeStone"Hi, I am interested in rare coins from these countries •
Are Ukranian or Russian citizens on this site?You can also do this: •
go to Exchanges - Start a swap - click on Country - scroll down to Ukraine (though you might see nothing since you have zero coins in your exchange list). •
Если Вы недалеко от Киева, то не проще ли съездить на нумизматический базарчик на бывшем ВДНХ? Насколько я помню, они собираются каждый месяц.
Je cherche toutes les pièces de 2 euros, régulières et commémoratives dans TB et plus élevés contre mes pièces d'échange. Le courrier non recommandé seulement, merci de votre compréhension.
Looking for all 2 euro coins, regular and commemos in VF and higher grades in exchange for my swap coins. Non-registered mail only, thanks for understanding.
I have quite a lot of Canadian commemo quarters but I am looking for those 3 Polish coins: •
Do you have them for swap or can you get them for me?
Quote: "druzhynets"One photo is from West Ukraine (100 years ago we were under the rule of Austria), while the clothing with Russian empire coins is from Central/East Ukraine, which was part of Russia back then. •
It's not Hungary :) •
I agree about the second pic - it is (mostly probably) from Zakarpatje, that type of "apron jewelry" is named "salba" and - as far as I know - is usually made with the coins of Austro-Hungarian empire. The first costume (though it seems to have only Russian coins) is not really typical for central/eastern Ukraine and the name of this type of jewelry - dukach (from dukat) - kind of alludes to have some Hungarian roots. •
This is what I meant but you should take it with a pinch of salt - I am in no way any kind of expert in Ukrainian costumes...
I find Numiscorner to be ridiculously and unrealistically expensive and I would prefer them to be gone from Numista forever. It really misinforms and creates a lot of confusion. •
And just opposite, I find that eBay listings of the coin in question is quite helpful though there is a little catch - when it comes to the "market price", one should look at the "sold items" prices rather than the asking price or current auction bid.
I have a lot of gaps (especially before 1900) but my oldest are Olbia/Sarmatia dolphin coins made somewhere between 350 to 550 BC. Surprisingly, they are much more available (and affordable) than I thought. Sorry for the bright reflection on the scan - didn't want to remove them from their holders: •
I've got about 30 full sets of Canadian 2012-2013 "War of 1812" quarters - 8 quarters per set, 4 colored and 4 non-colored, mint sealed in cello (plyofilm), 5 pieces per pack, all in BU/PL condition. Willing to swap them in bulk for other Canadian commemorative coins (aUNC or better). •
Quote: "golincoins"@glykan •
Up until now, I have been doing nickel hunting... •
Just for curiosity sake - what was the oldest nickel you've found while roll hunting? My oldest hunted penny was 1947 ML in quite a miserable condition...
Guys, you've completely forgot THE most famous piece of Finland: •
Quote: "MonaSeaclaid"I didn't even see one of each circulating Canada 150 coin. •
I believe that it strongly depends on where you live and where you shop - many cashiers/cash managers pick them up before they get into cashiers' bin. Despite of it "150s" pop up here and there and I've got them all from the change (including one colored $2 coin) but even the employees at my local bank branch admit that they don't see too many of them.
Thanks to all, I appreciate your opinion.
Feel better soon - "Bonne santé!" as French people say - and we'll continue the discussion when you are ready. •
OK, at least there is someone who claims to have them all. You see, I am trying to wrap my head around it and something looks rather improbable to me. •
To start with - there must be 2 variants of the obverse dies and "Far Beads" is, probably, a deviation from the original design (since it's more rare than "Near Beads" and all pennies before and after 1983 are "Near Beads"). This deviation for sure existed in business strike dies and you can relatively easily find both variants in regular circulated or uncirculated pennies. PL (according to the regular practice of RCM) are the coins taken out of business production (made with brand new dies and with no "bin storage") and therefore - in my opinion - both variants should exist in PL, as long as by "PL" we mean the coins from the mint sets sealed in cellophane (actually, plyofilm) and sold in paper envelopes. •
As for "speciment" (in 1983 it was a double strike usi[...]
Hi Davide, •
I would gladly swap my "normal" coins for your fakes - provided though that I can send by regular mail (registered is way too expensive in Canada...) •
Look at my swap list and send me the list of all your fakes
Regarde mes doubles, je peu prendre 2 euro commemos pour échange.
Parece una falsificación para mí.
Kopeck - Pyotr I
Coin identifications and valuations
Quote: "alamir"My scale has just 1 positionafter the dot. But it says 0.2g. Diameter is 8mmYes, it is a silver kopek of Piotr I (Peter the Great), most probably minted somewhere between 1701 and 1704.
Quote: "thatcanadianserb"@pretrus the last link of the coin you sent is fake.It is not fake - the seller clearly indicated that it is a reproduction and PetrusAscanus sent it to you as an example of non-genuine coin. •
Without a picture of the coin you are looking to buy it is almost impossible to say anything definitively.
Coin identifications and valuations
Weight is correct for the period - I strongly believe you have a genuine coin.
A small fragment (genuine on the left vs fake on the right) - find the differences: •
As for why would anyone make this fake, the answer is rather simple - probably, it is profitable (despite of the coin being rather inexpensive)
Quote: "geraltttt82" •
For example one full inscription: •
it took me a half day, with searching all kind of examples for Władysław IV Waza as Car of Russia, to complete and understand the whole inscription (i dont know Cyrillic). Of course it may contain errors, so Im not certainly sure I translated it in correct way. •
You did well, it is really "Tsar and Grand Duke of all Russia Vladislav Zhigimondovich" minted in Moscow from September 1610 till September 1612. If it's your coin, you can weight it and tell if it was minted in the beginning of his short rule or toward end of it - initially coins had 0.68g (till August 1611), and than the weight was progressively decreased to 0.6g, than to 0.51g, than to 0.48g and during the last couple of months of his rule had only 0.41g.
Yes, I already came back from that trip but anyhow - thanks a lot for the information. Will try to visit those stores next time.
From non-circulating, the Ukrainian 2,000,000 karbovantsiv 1995-1996 definitely have the highest denomination: •
and from circulating silver issues - yes, Romanian KM#71 with denomination of 100,000 lei seems to hold a record.
You can check my swap list - I am always ready for a good deal.
I significantly upgraded my swap list by adding quite a number of better coins - please have a look if you are interested. I can also sell my swap coins if you don't have what I am looking for. •
Quote: "ArnoV"My more or less desperate outcry to the Numista community: is there anyone there with metalurgical knowledge who knows how zinc coins are best preserved, and how zinc corrosion can be stopped? •
I've heard people talking about rubbing them in parafine, or gun oil, but I can't judge if that's the right thing to do. Keep it away from water for sure, and don't try peroxide or anything acidic. •
I am in no way a metallurgist but I had my (multiple) inorganic chemistry courses and even taught an inorganic chemistry at high school for a while. So, here are my two cents - and take them with a pinch of salt. •
Zinc rust (or white rust) is a result of direct oxidation of zinc by oxygen in a presence of water. Unfortunately, zinc is rather reactive metal and therefore rusts very easily in a presence of even low level of humidity (faster than iron or steel) and there is not much you can do about it. •
Cleaning of zinc [...]
Quote: "oggy"Johnspa has volunteered to be the American conduit, so that's sorted! •
Could you please PM me Johnspa's address so I can send him the coins for Michael?
Quote: "Ilan-03"Looking for Montreal/Laval collectors to swap.It would be me. What are you looking for and what do you have for swap? PM me with details.
Number 5 and 9 have too few readable letters and I can't identify them for sure though the font is very similar to the late Pyotr I period. The rest 8 coins are definitely of Pyotr I. Number 2 seems to be of year 1708 (АΨН under the horse belly) and number 6 and 10 have the partial dates, probably also 1708.
Quote: "glykan" •
Quote: "kfranklin"I'm looking for as complete of set as I can get. I'm still learning all about Canadian pennies and didn't know there were more then one per year.I'll be quite busy this weekend but on Monday will put aside whatever I can find for you.I didn't forget about you but it takes more time than I thought...
I am interested - please look at my swap list
Didn't want to create a new topic so if deemed inappropriate to mix two countries in one topic, please let me know. •
Since we are talking about countries and their names, I think we need to clarify/correct a couple of things with Russia in Numista catalog. In my humble opinion, it should be presented as follows: •
up to 1917 - Russia - Empire •
1917-1923 - RSFSR (Russian Soviet Federative Socialist Republic) •
1924-1991 - USSR (Union of Soviet Socialistic Republics, but not just Soviet Union which is rather a nick name) •
after 1991 - Russian Federation (not just Russia) •
I think that using the official county names will make it much more clear (and politically correct :-)
I still have some Third Reich 1 pfennig in my swap list (though several of them are under negotiation) as well as some low denominations UK pre-decimal. On top of this, I have a couple of dozens more of the same period and denominations from both countries not listed yet, those are of better quality or less common years(mints). Let me know if you are interested - I've seen some silver coins in your swap list that I am interested in.
Looks like a crude cast - definitely not a coin
Ask someone who lives in Copenhagen (or visits this lovely city) - they should be available in the stores in or around Christiania area on Amager (island and a city district of Copenhagen)
Before 1535 money reform in Russia, there was no standard weight of the coins and each principality has it's own weight of denga. Money minted in Pskov were heavier than money of Moscow which may explain the excessive weight of your coin, especially if it was minted in earlier period. •
Anyhow, as I mentioned before, this is a very interesting and quite uncommon coin, my congratulations!
I am thinking about putting my (several small) coin collections in proper order and keep the records of them separately (not in one large pool on Numista). Ideally, I would like to have the pictures of my real coins to be in that database (as I said, my collections are relatively small) and have the ability to put a lot of extra information (like variants, errors, or just memos). •
I know that there is a number of coin collecting software around but I would like to hear some pros and cons from people who use (or tried to use) those softwares. •
Thanks in advance for sharing your experience.
Thank you all for your contributions, it seems that now I can start putting together a small collection of the coin-on-coin theme - something I wanted for quite a while though for the budget reasons I'll probably go with non-precious metals only. •
So, if you have any of those coins for swap - drop me a line. And please, continue to add more info on this topic - I really appreciate it.
J'ai pas mal de 25c commémo canadiens et j'aimerais les échanger contre des pièces commémo d'autres pays (désolé, pas de 2 euros ni États-Unis) . •
Je recherche seulement des pièces en SUP ou meilleure , toutes mes pièces commémo canadiens sont en SUP ou BU . •
En raison du coût des services postaux au Canada , je préfère fortement un envoi simple . •
I have quite a number of Canadian commemorative quarters and would like to swap them for commemorative coin from other countries (sorry, no 2 euro and no US quarters or dollars - I've got all that I need). •
Looking for coins in XF or better condition only. •
Due to the high cost of the postal services in Canada - non-registered mail only, unless you want to make a really big swap that can justify a $30 mailing fee.
There is a whole bunch of commemorative 1 baht that I would like to have but I have no clue if one can find them in circulation or they would cost you an arm and a leg at numismatic place. If you run in to them and the price is reasonably low - I would greatly appreciate your help.
Quote: "MonaSeaclaid" •
I'd have loved to have one for 30c. •
You can have all mines - I am downsizing my collection and have available 36x 1 penny (1896-1966) and 35x 1/2 pennies (1887-1967), all different years. Older pieces (before 1950) are in my swap list, for the rest I can send you the scan. Take them all and it will cost you the same US $0.3 a piece...
I was being relatively modest - I only have around 3,000 of Canadian small pennies and (probably) around 5 or 6 hundreds of commemorative Canadian quarters •
Apart from this, I've recently downsized my collection from more than 5,000 coin to less than 2,300 and am considering further cuts to it
Quote: "gdrsb" •
Quote: "glykan"Looks like modern reproduction to me. Not a quick-and-dirty Chinese mass-production, but better quality (and therefore more dangerous) modern fake. •
Just by the way - this coin was not minted, it's a cast copy.why? IMHO it's normal minted coin. The problem of Vilnius mint of 1545-1565 is, that the puncheones were not clear sometimes...Two issues for me: •
- way too sharp letters around the edge and quite worn center at the same time and •
- look at the top of the letters L and A in LITVA - this is how cast looks like. •
I may be mistaken though... •
P.S. If you have genuine coin in THAT condition for $ 10-15 - please let me know, I'll take three of them
According to Krause, there was 1981 Kenya 1 shilling minted only in proof : •
Looking for US Kennedy half dollar 1969D (only this year and mint!) in UNC and the 1945 5 cents (any mint) in XF or higher. •
Can offer 10 cents, 25 cents and Kennedy half dollar from 1964 S proof set , all coins are still in plyofilm.
I noticed that something strange is going on with Canada-US mails. Seems that way too many letters get delayed or missing and I don't know who to blame - Canada Post or USPS. Fresh examples - my letter from Montreal to New Jersey (distance of 8 hours of lazy driving) took more than 6 weeks to arrive to the addressee and another letter from Detroit to Montreal (6 hours drive) still didn't arrive 8 weeks after being sent. •
Is there any enhanced mail security procedures in place now? Or it's just a sloppiness?
Quote: "ALLRED1950" Yes the dies were hand punched , not the coin.Thanks, I should have guessed...
Quote: "bajsz" •
Quote: "glykan"Here is how my list of last silver circulating coins looks like. Arguably, there are later commemorative issues that did have some circulation but I believe that the coins below are the last intended for "true and regular circulation" •
1995 - Mexico 10, 20 and 50 Nuevo Pesos •
1976 - Portugal 100 escudos •
1974 - Germany 5 mark and Macau 20 patacas •
1973 - Austria 10 schilling and France 10 francs (not sure if 10 francs had any noticeable circulation) •
1971 - Sweden 5 kronor •
1970 - Panama, Netherlands Antilles, Egypt, Spain (and Haiti with its silver-nickel 20 centimes).1992/93 and 1994 Hungarian 200 forint •
These coins were intended for circulation and for some extent did really circulate until demonetization, althoug[...]
It makes two of us - I completely agree with derf and would be very cautious about this coin.
Quote: "Camerinvs"However, though I obviously agree with glykan about those pseudo-coins, we're likely to insult some Numista members if we actually use such terms as "trash" or "souvenirs" in the catalogue. I would use "non-circulating" and spell it out for every such coin on their catalogue page (which is not currently done). Perhaps what we need is a post on "What is a coin?" and describe the different categories of objects that can be considered numismatic: coins, non-circulating coins, trade tokens, etc. •
I agree that the name shouldn't be offensive or derogatory. At the same time I think it's not enough to name all those Mickey-mouse-type of coins "non-circulating" - it would be way too easy to mix it up with "non-circulating coins". I actually suggest to put them in a separate category (with any kind of euphemism but definitely not calling them "coins"), together with the "Lord of the[...]
Great solution provided that you have a lot of coins in air tights of the same (or very close) size.
As per to my limited experience, the majority of double-die of this penny is on the digits of "1967" and you have both dates clearly doubled. •
As for missing dots - I'd say that it's due to the dirt/grease on the well used dies, and it is rather common.
Sorry, I am looking for 2008
Quote: "pnightingale"I've got a picture of Hillary in a bikini........Phil, it seems that you have a nice collection of pictures - why don't you open a new topic (or continue it here) and offer to post them for small money that will go to Abby's fund? Maybe someone would hate to see Hilary the same way I hate seeing yet another Trump picture that he/she will gladly pay to get it removed? •
Just a suggestion...
Yes they are the same and were issued in USSR from 1957 to 1991 (#MS1 to MSA33). There were also two proof sets with the same set of coins, issued in 1990 and 1991 (#PS3 and #PS4).
Here are the prices on this coin on Russian auctions: •
I have several pounds of Canadian cents and between 2002 and 2012 I have all of them (except really rare variants) in "aUNC with full red" condition. I also have some PL and proofs if it's what you are after. Would prefer to sell them though - send me your list if it's OK with you.
Quote: "Myeackle"Dang I missed out on that one. •
Have a look at my swap list, I have some 2 euro listed.
It looks like "made in China" for me - sorry about bad news...
Thanks to Beekeeper, the lot is sold now. Proceeds together with his additional contribution go to Phil. •
Phil, we are on your side!
Je remercie vivement tous les collectionneurs qui m'ont contacté, j'ai déjà trouvé toutes les 2 euro commémoratives que je recherchais.
I didn't find any info on those bimetals though the device is different and it might be a private issue rather than official mint product. Our Russian numismatic fellows might shed a bit more light on the subject but you have to wait for a couple of days - they are celebrating a Victory Day today...
Initially, they've issued strictly as no-value tokens and we're simply given away for free. Than one US company bought quite a lot of them and started selling them in US for $8 - which immediately peaked the interest in USSR. It was still 1988-1989 and this token was one of very few things which one could (potentially) sell for hard currency. So, the demand soared which, in turn, lead to manufacturing of a lot of copies - strictly speaking you can't call them "forgeries" since the original one is not a legal tender.
I have quite a lot of them in my swap list but they are mostly in BU or PL condition and therefore their price is significantly higher than the face value. •
Check the older topics in "Swap and Trades" - somebody recently has offered a number of quarters in XF.
And how do you know that it is not silver? Did you do some tests? I am asking because for me the tarnishing (though it's not easy to judge by your picture due to the brownish hue of it) looks like silver one and usually people make such kind of pendants out of silver coins. If it is true, the weight should be about 0.1 g more (my guesstimate for the weight of the bail and a drop of solder). •
By the way, Krause doesn't list nickel version of this coin (it may not exist). The very similar 10 dollar issued next year (1978, Communications Satellites) has both silver and nickel version, and the nickel version is 3.1 gram lighter (28 g instead of 31.1 g) - so, if your coins is nickel, it should weight the same 28 g, not 31g.
I agree, AU for the one on the right and VF (maybe even VF-) for the one on the left - you can judge by the sharpness of the letter edges.
Did some reading on restrikes of that period - according to some sources, Moscow Mint (= Red Mint, mintmark MM) did not minted any brand new 2 kopeck between 1763 and 1778, they only restriked 4 kopecks issued in 1762. Funny thing is that some of those 4 kopeck of 1762 were themselves the restrikes of the previous issues. Which means that some coins may bear the leftovers of more than one previous device...
25 cent 1980
For me it looks like Far Beads: •
I do have 45 different 2 euro coin for swap - please check my swap list to see exactly which ones. In exchange, I am looking for the following silver Mexican coins, in XF or better: •
- 5 pesos 1957 •
- 10 Nuevos Pesos 1995 •
- 20 Nuevos Pesos 1995 •
- 50 Nuevos Pesos 1995 •
- 100 pesos 1979 •
Do you have any of those for swap?
Looks suspicious to me - if I were you, I would double check if it's a genuine one.
And how much do you want for a walking liberty in G4?
Quote: "Fluke" ...but there is a way to make it look like it is a darker brown toned mat proof...I think that in order to achieve equal matt effect on these coins, one has to use some kind of etching solution first in order to remove the leftovers of the mirror finishing - otherwise I am afraid the corrosion spots will be still visible. Such etching mixtures are usually very aggressively corrosive and I strongly DO NOT recommend using them at home.
One possible explanation is that your coin is not 0.925 silver KM#6a (which according to Krause should weight 25.7 g) but copper-nickel KM#6. Though Krause doesn't bother to give the weight of the copper-nickel version, I've seen it before with other crown-sized modern coins - the non-silver versions are significantly lighter. •
Look at the color of the coin (it's difficult to judge by your picture) - silver versions are usually more whitish-silverish whereas copper-nickel versions are usually a bit darker with "nickelish" color to it.
Could it be an re-engraved dies? Is anything known about using such dies by US mint(s)?
Quote: "pnightingale"I'm pretty confident this is a modern copy but I'd like to check the specs against the real coin before discarding it. •
If you confirm that this is a fake/modern copy, please let me know before you put it in a trash bin. •
P.S. As for the matter of the post as concern - yes, it looks like a copy...
My not-an-expert's 2 cents - looks like real one. No serious inconsistencies with the published pictures and the measurements (in my opinion) are withing the range. Little edge ding between 1 and 2 o'clock of the obverse, as well as rubs and nicks are consistent with typical bag marks, so unless it is an extremely high quality forgery (which I don't believe) - you've got yourself a very nice copy of 1883 Morgan. And judging by the number of the images of very well preserved 1883 Morgans on Google Image, it is not uncommon to find a copy in such condition.
Quote: "xblamecanadax"coolest picture ever!!! And coolest circulation coins, too!!!!!
Quote: "pennyhunter"...I do have more questions that only a true Canada penny expert can answer. Please answer my questions above if you are that person. •
I don't think you can easily find such a person or even most of the information in one place. As far as I know nobody managed to put all info in one place yet and there is quite a discrepancy on what really exists (or doesn't) - especially when it comes to endless and mixed-up finish variations and errors/mint varieties. Canadian catalog (Charlton) doesn't list all the variants, too and it definitely doesn't give you any tell-tale signs on how to tell the difference. •
So, the only way for you is to became such expert yourself...
Quote: "Whatacoin" •
Quote: "glykan"WHAT IT HAS TO DO WITH COINS?Hi there Glykan. Sometimes I sell stones and other related items on here or in exchange for coins sometimes. People tend to enjoy it. Have a great day!Hi, •
I still think it is inappropriate for the numismatic site and I suggest you to remove it. And if you want to talk stones - this lapis is dyed (blue-toned low quality lapis), pendants are very small and have cheap base metal bails - all in all, the wholesale price for the lot is somewhere between $60 and $80.
But as far as I see on your picture with a caliper, it gives you the thickness of almost exactly 2mm (not 3mm as you say) - which, provided the flimsiness and relative inaccuracy of your plastic caliper, is very close to the required 2.3mm. •
Or I am missing something?
Quote: "Cerulean"The obverse looks undamaged, with no signs of deformation, so I am inclined to believe a faulty planchet error.It makes two of us.
Just added a number of older (1900-1945) coins to my swap list and hope to do more swaps. Please keep in mind that my "wish list" is very precise and if Numista tells you that I am interested in let's say 10 of your coins - this is exactly what I am interested in. The only exception is circulating silver - I will take as much as you are willing to offer. (And yes, all my swap coins are for sale, too.) •
Doesn't look real to me, either. Did you check the weight and the thickness?
Quote: "numinis"The prices are dependent on location. E.g. Latvian CCs in Lithuania are notably cheaper than CCs of other countries. •
The claim that circulated CCs are worth just 2 euro is false in my country. Here even the most common types are sold for 2,30-2,50 euro. •
Thanks for the info. And how would you value the common 2 euro CC in the condition "UNC with bag marks" - they have never circulated but have scratches resulting from hitting each other?
(sorry, it was an erroneous message)
These double-dollar sets are really prone to hazing - I have several of them and almost all mine sets show hazing and edge yellowing to certain degree. I believe something is not 100% right with the plastic RCM used tomake those boxes. •
Nevertheless, despite of the hazing the coins are usually fine - I have some experience with that. Once upon a time I've bought a set with the serious damage to the box and I took a liberty to take all coins out. I VERY gently cleaned the coins with the soapy water. And you know what - the haze was gone in no time and all coins come out absolutely nice. Yes the yellowing on the edge was still there - as would any dark colored fingerprint - this is a chemical reaction of the silver and you need chemical treatment to remove it.
Moreover, in some cases the prices come out of blue (?), for example for some relatively new coins it may look like this: •
XF priced at $0.50, UNC priced at $1.50 and VF priced at $20.00 (!!!) •
It looks like their software is really screwed up.
Quote: "Oklahoman"You may have just stopped looking too soon. •
You are right - silly (impatient) me - looked again and yes, they are there. •
At the same time couldn't help myself to notice that - surprise surprise - Krause lists Canadian "$20 for $20", "$50 for $50" and "$100 for $100" series as bullion coins. Sounds strange for me and it completely blurs the line between commemorative coins and bullions - but they probably have their reasons to call them bullion coins. Not that I really care though...
Je suis à la recherche des tous les 50 centimes, 1 franc et 2 francs de la troisième république en TB ou TTB (ou SUP). Contactez-moi si vous êtes intéressé par l'échange contre mes doubles. •
Merci d'avance •
On one hand I agree with you - we do see a number of sale offers from the members who do not qualify under Numista rules though many (if not all of them) are being removed by moderators. Sooner or later. •
On the other hand, I consider selling at Numista (provided that you are qualified for that) as a valid way to improve your coin collection. •
In my case, I limited the scope of my coin collection to several specific topics/countries/periods and already reached the point when there is almost no new swaps opportunities for me at Numista. Plus, small swaps with many countries are way too expensive for us Canadians, often more expensive than simply buying the coins you need at eBay. •
So, in all fairness I do believe that selling coins at Numista has sense and is useful.
Here are my 3rd Reich 1 pfennig coins - https://en.numista.com/forum/topic56977.html •
I also have quite a number of USSR coins from 1961 to 1991 •
PM me if interested
Divide 60 by two (or three) and you have the price Or we can talk discuss it. •
But if you want a registered letter, the postal fee might scare you off - it's about $20 from Canada to India.
Quote: "akadotour"the solution that partner offered is to wait the post's compensation, finally it seems that the post service of the partner's country didnt find the parcel at all. Soon will be an year since the deal was so I doubt it will be found •
I'd say that this is a wrong way do deal with the situation. If I were in his shoes, I would send the coins again or compensate my swap partner in agreeable manner and than I deal with my post office. •
I believe that it is a responsibility of the sender to make sure that his/her parcel reaches the other side.
Yes, all those "doublings", "extra buds", "harps" and "hanging numbers" listed on Coins and Canada site are commonly recognized varieties and are thought after by collectors. Individual errors are less popular though I am sure there is a number of collectors who are looking for them.
Quote: "alamir"... which information ... to write on the labels? •
I don't write - I print info on a small adhesive address label and glue them to the top and/or the bottom of the coin holder. This way it looks much better than a handwriting (and especially better than my handwriting). •
As for the information, for me KM number, denomination and year are compulsory while the country is optional.
COINS ARE ALREADY RESERVED •
I am "trimming" my collection of small coins (like 1 cent, 1 centavo, 1 pfennig, 1 paisa, 1 kopeck, etc.) and got about 250 such coins available for swap or sale. They are from 53 different countries and about 90 different KM#s, from 1 to 8 coin per KM. All coins within one KM are of different years. Dates range from 1960s to 2014 with some older coins. The average grade is VF, with some better and just few lower than VF. •
Let me know if you are interested, I will send you a list of countries and KM included. I would strongly prefer to swap/sell the whole lot in one go, or maybe split them in to 2 smaller lots. •
If you want to swap them for your doubles, please go to my profile to see how many of your coins I might be interested in, my wish list is very precise and updated.
The wish list should be populated manually, coin by coin. The saved criteria create another pool of our wishes but the coins from this pool do not go automatically to your wish list. Also, pay attention to a small menu on the top of the "Your wishes" page - it also helps to precise your selection.
Quote: "Andrii"Мусорской •
I am very sorry but the surname of the famous composer is Мусоргский (Mussorgsky). In the spelling you used, it doesn't sound very nice...
Looks like rust - if so, the surface of the coin is already irreparably damaged. You can try to reduce the appearance of the corrosion using gun oil or WD-40 oil though I doubt that it will have a really significant effect. •
Sorry for bad news...
Yes, the original issue of 1965 has the edge inscription "Один рубль 9 мая 1965" while the restrike has the date of restrike and letter H (stands for Новодел= restrike) added to edge inscription - "Один рубль 9 мая 1965 1988.Н"
Quote: "druzhynets" •
Quote: "glykan"My slightly tricky goal for 2017: to find yet another topic/area/country/etc. which I can collect by means of swapping my Canadian commemorative quarters with other Numista members. •
Any suggestions? •
Polish 2 złote commemorative coins? I thought about it but it seems that many collectors from Eastern and Central Europe prefer registered mail which is very expensive here in Canada.
After long procrastination I finally updated my swap list and can now sell any of my doubles for fair negotiable price. Let me know if interested.
Quote: "Camerinvs"...how the ruler ─emperor, king, queen, etc.─ is usually represented in an idealized way... •
Yes, I can only imagine how really ugly Leopold the Hogmouth was...
Unfortunately, it isn't letter "L" - it's a horse leg (see the picture). Mintmark supposed to be to the right below the belly but even with full mintmark you might be able to establish a period, not an exact year. •
Number 3 seems to be this one but most importantly - all three look very much like modern reproduction.
Quote: "numinis"And how valuable are the coins that are worth to fake? •
It's a very good question though since I don't make the fake coins I don't really have an answer for this •
In general, I always assumed that the coin should cost at least 40-50 dollars in order to be attractive to make fakes of but very recently I've seen on eBay a lot of cast copies of Russian silver 10 kopecks of 1900-1915 that actually costs below $10.
There is a local coin store here in Montreal that sells the silver foreign coins by Krause prices. Sometimes those prices are lower than an "average market" prices but in most cases they are significantly higher.
And the last Canadian cent was minted in 2012, and there is no 1 cent coins after that date.
Double- checked it with the catalog of Russian coins by Bitkin (kind of bible of the Russian coins) - the only coins issued with the portrait of Pavel I were: i) 1796 essay silver 1 rouble Bi#219 (4 types of Novodel=restrikes are known), has 39mm in diameter and weights 24 g and ii) undated silver coronation medal of the same diameter. •
Are you sure that your coin is made of copper?
Quote: "Idolenz"The plasticiser leaches out copper, therfore the green color and if that is not stopped you will see surface changing like rough parts against the light, especially proof coins suffer from pvc damage. Also the whole stuff is sticky and unpleassant in other regards.If plasticiser reacts with copper (I didn't know it) - than yes, the surface will be damaged. And yes, the proof coins with their high mirror surface will show even slightest damage of that surface.
Quote: "loruca"French 2 franc coins are accepted in vending machines as CAD dollars. I accidentally put one i had in my pocket into one this morning. and only later realized it wasn't a quarter. •
The same with France 1 franc KM# 925.1 (1959-2001) - Canadian vending machines take them for a quarter though a quarter is almost 1 g lighter.
I would consider as a "modern" coin everything issued from 1970 to date, this being absolutely subjective.
Quote: "crruisercharlie"Interested in some of the nickels. Take a look at my swap list and see what you like. Thanks CharlieCharlie, I don't see you swap list - can you please open it?
Quote: "katina7"yes, I also think like that. •
If this coin VF I think my too. •
This is F •
Such a nice example of the subjectivity of the so called "professional grading" - two coins of quite the same level of wear (if you take an average of both sides) are graded with 20 (TWENTY!!!) point difference. •
But if you ask me, I like the second (F15) better even despite of the more pronounced wear of the reverse.
To second what Steve27 says - sending ANYTHING except personal communications to Crimea from US or Canada is illegal. By the way - just out of curiosity - would it qualify as a misdemeanor or as a felony?
Another funny thing about Canada Post ( at least in Quebec) - letters and Light Packages from Montreal to France often arrive within 2 or 3 days only (unbelievably fast) while the same letter to Belgium can easily take 2 or 3 weeks. •
And the letter within Montreal can easily take up to 4 working days.
I have to disappoint you - yes, it was an unintentional mistake. Most of these "error" coins have been destructed and only few have slipped in to circulation, therefore so few are known. Chronologically, they first minted noP/noLogo on zinc, than switched to P version on steel and in a second half of the year they switched again - this time to Logo version which has been minted on both metals. Both errors happened during the first switch - just remember that it is not a single press and single person who does all that, and with a dozen of presses and simultaneous change of all dies and metal everything can happen. •
I have a friend of mine who used to work at RCM - he told me a lot about how it is organized and how tightly everything is controlled and believe me, the scenario with any "intentional" error is simply impossible.
I have two, PM me if you are interested: •
OK, I give up and let other people to discuss it further. Still believe that it is a contemporary addition to the coin.
Quote: "Peter M. Graham"Loonie has a nice design.I also like loonie the best - I'll need a magnifying glass to see the picture on toonie while the rest are way too simplistic to my taste.
Quote: "Oklahoman"I think so, I have so many coins, and nowhere to list them in Canada.You mean you have a lot of this "specimen" type of coins or other coins, too? I noted that the section of modern "souvenir" Canadian coins in Numista is far from being complete but it's not surprising - RCM makes them by dozens each year
I would be interested - I have quite a number of Canadian commemoratives and about 60 different commemorative 2 euro coins to swap. Since you have no feedback, would you agree to send first?
Quote: "pabandom"#4 •
Maybe spain, carolus III ? One side looks strange, double head and the date spined a bit clockwise.To me, mint mark looks like NR which means Bogota mint in Columbia, but I can't read the assayer's initials to confirm that. Avers is really strange, effigy is doubled but I don't see any doubling on the letters. On the other hand, colonial mints are known to do the sloppy minting.
Coin identifications and valuations
OK, I did a bit more digging on a subject. Information is very fragmentary and often contradictory but you have to understand that 1998 (unlike previous issues) is NOT a government issue. There is a consensus among serious Russian collectors that 1993 was the last year when those tokens (actually, I would call them "notgeld") were issued with a purpose of circulation. 1998 was a private issue and no official information exists on the mintage. Some people claim that 0.5 denomination had only 100 copies, some say 5 had the same mintage - but I see one major thing that doesn't fit this information, namely: is there is only 100 copies of "5" (or 0.5 or any other denomination) - how comes that they are quite abandoned on the numismatic market? In fact, one can relatively easily buy the full set of 1998 below $200 - and all this with a mintage of 100 pieces??? •
So, in my opinion, it should be stated "mintage unknown" and everyone has to keep in their min[...]
Genuine or fake?
Coin identifications and valuations
In my humble opinion - 100% fake (modern Chinese copy)
Swaps and trades
Elementary, Watson. •
List of all Canadian coins with niobium issued by Royal Canadian Mint is here plus 2 more (with niobium colouring) that are still available at RCM are here. •
I have a couple of them - and the only one I really like is a Wolf Moon.
As far as I know, the very first Canadian proofs (matte image on the mirror background) can be found in 1975 double-dollar mint set - and only fraction of these sets contain 25 and 50 cent coins with the matte/mirror combination. First "official" proof 1 cent was issued only in 1981. •
Weight of the regular circulated 1 cent of 1970 ranges from 3.19g to 3.29g (I weighted off 10 individual coins), the weight of the proof-like 1970 1 cent from the mint set ranges from 3.17 to 3.28g (5 coins).
My reply has somehow disappeared... or did I hit the wrong button again???
Having quite an experience (about 30 years ) of working with the precise laboratory balances, I can add my 2 cents to this discussion, which is: I wouldn't trust the claimed 0.01g accuracy of the (made in China) pocket electronic scales. And this is to put it mildly. I would more or less trust them within plus-minus 0.05g, but no more. And, please, don't think that their "inaccuracy" is consistent - it is not. It depends on the temperature in a room (and even 1 centigrade matters), humidity, battery depletion, vibration (how sturdy your table is), drafts, etc. •
On a good side, you can keep your weight measurements in pretty good order if you can find a so called "weight standard" and calibrate your scale (some scale models have a "calibration" option) just before weighting off your coins. Ideally, the weight of the standard should be in a range of the weigh of your coin - let's say 1 g for small coin, 10g for the larger ones and 25-50g for big [...]
Quote: "nthn"Are you looking to swap it?Yes I am. Preferably all of them together.
Can't read the year but it is this one •
or this one •
And in Canada, I have to pay CAD$68 (~45 euro) for a registered package above 1 kg to Spain or Portugal. Regular mail to Europe (100-300g) - almost 6 euro, registered letter to Europe (the same 100-300g) - 18 euro. More or less the same for all other continents. •
Just keep in mind (and read the Content on the label) that there is a 70% Isopropanol Rubbing Alcohol, and there is a 70% Ethanol Rubbing Alcohol. And than there is also a Rubbing Alcohol Compound which is 95% Ethanol. In fact, the dissolving power of all three are more or less the same though I personally prefer 95% Ethanol - low water content makes it more strong dissolvent. •
I soaked all kind of coins (aluminium, bronze, copper, nickel alloys and silver) in these alcohols - usually they remove some dirt and do not affect the patina or the oxidation - actually, they can't affect any (real) patina by definition. What they can do though - is to remove some very old dirt and expose the hidden area of the coin where the patina has not developed, thus resulting in "uneven patination"
AFGHANISTAN 1 paisa AH 1317 (1899 AD) KM827 - 1 year type
Quote: "doc_man" I can read Russian more less thx :) •
This is what I thought
Quote: "nemesis0169"Bonjour. •
Les ventes ne sont pas autorisées sur Numista.Désolé, je ne le savais pas - la vente est autorisée sur la version anglaise de Numista. J'ai supprimé la phrase sur leur vente.
Mes pièces canadiennes des années 1980, 1986 et 2013 - contre vos pièces d'année 1956?
4 Roman coins
Coin identifications and valuations
Thanks a lot - I thought of number 3 as of (potentially) barbarous radiate but you nailed it, I agree that it definitely is Gallienus. •
Would you agree with my identification of number 2 and 4? Need to know if I am on a right track...
Thanks a lot, I appreciate your help.
I have another question pretty close to this one: •
I noticed that some of my swap partners were able to cancel the swap ("I don't want to swap") and later restore it to the active state. Anybody knows how to do it?
Thanks a lot for all your advices - my trip to Barcelona was (actually still is) absolutely perfect. I wish I was able to come here again and again. •
As for numismatics - the only store I was able to find was Aureo & Galicio mentioned by JustforFun but it is way out my league and above my modest budget allocated for this trip. Other stores (if they exist) are well hidden and away from major tourist routes and attraction. •
The Sunday coin market at Placa Reial was very good though - not that many vendors (around 20 or 25) but good variety of coins from the latest 2 euro and back to ancient Rome. Prices are quite high - especially on the table close to the entrance and with the English-speaking vendors, but some "Spanish-only" vendors are more flexible and you can get a good deal. There was a lot of large silver 5 pesetas (1870-early 1900) but they seems to be priced "for tourists only". Surprisingly, there was very little of the[...]
Quote: "ZacUK" I would join; born February 1956. OK, three gentlemen - it's already a club! Congratulations!
Quote: "neilithic" It would be me - even though I didn't start selling yet... OK, I tried hard and I quickly realized how much work and efforts it takes and how little the monetary reward is. So, for the time being I decided to keep it strictly as a "collecting hobby" (actually meaning hoarding and swapping) and leave the selling for the future retirement when it may (or may not) become worth the time spent on it. •
And no, no buyer's fatigue whatsoever.
Quote: "zegeri"glykan, do you know if there is any catalog of this issues?Yes of course - Scott has them under #105-107, 112-116 and 139-141 and Michel actually lists them as "Notgeld" - #107A-109B, 110-112 and 117-121. •
More complete information can be found in Russian stamp catalogs like Zagorski Specialized 1845-1917.
If you are still interested, my 1992 has coin alignment
No brainer - the left one is original (damn good condition!) and the right one is fake. Tell-tale signs are the edges - one part looks like well worn (and the center part is not worn at all, and the other part is still sharp. Color and surface of the right one are both damn wrong.
Here are my 2 cents: •
Does it bother you that I collect these coins for whatever reason? •
- No, as long it has no political context. •
Would a forum topic regarding Third Reich coins bother you? •
- No, as long it's about coins •
Would you wish to see such coins removed from the catalog? •
- No, never. You can't change the history. •
Should the discussion of Third Reich artifacts be prohibited? •
- Depends on the context. Purely collector's discussion - definitively not. •
Have you omitted these coins from your collection? •
- Partially. •
Do you have similar reservations about other regimes such as Zimbabwe, The Soviet Union, Ancient Rome etc? •
- Not for the listed countries, but I do actively avoid everything what has any political context in connection to today's Russia.
Steve27, Mark240590, Camerinvs, •
Not that I was specifically looking for the any countermarks, I've got this one by pure chance though I must admit that it started growing on me and I am going to look for all kind of countermarks more closely. Provided that they are affordable...
If you ask me, number 2 looks like a cast - have a look at the micro pattern on the surface. Others also looks a bit fishy to me...
I second both Andy289 and auctionking65 - he should be permanently blocked and expelled from this site. Forever. I am not bloodthirsty - it will be just fair for other members of Numista. I don't want to see this scumbag around.
It seems that 1991 Ecuador sucres was particularly sloppy issue - some time ago I also posted a couple of pictures of the same coin with date defects: https://en.numista.com/forum/topic45597.html
I'd be interested in your old Guernsey and Jersey - provided that you can find something interesting in my swap list
Which exactly Canadian and US coins are you interested in?
To jest chińska kopia - portret różni się od oryginału •
i centralną częścią herbu jest znacznie uszkodzone podczas gdy krawędź monety jest niczym nowym - więc nigdy
RCM (unlike many other mints) is very secretive and never announces in advance any of the coins they are going to release. The only way that may help you is to watch closely the government documents (decrees) to see if any coin (or change in the design) is authorized by Canadian government, but even than you'll never know when exactly the new coin will pop up. Or, if you have a friend who is a registered wholesaler of the RCM products, you can ask him to share with you the advertising pamphlets he gets before the official release date.
Swaps and trades
Quote: "RTScott78"My one question, and other reason for making this post besides introducing myself, is what is proper swap etiquette? Do I simply start checking coins off others swap lists or would it be more polite to message some one who has coins I would like to swap for and invite them to browse my swap list to determine if a mutually equitable swap can be made? •
I usually check off the coins and send a swap request with a couple of polite phrases. But read the profiles before you it - some people prefer to contacted first. And of course you can send people the invitation to browse your swap list, though it never worked for me...
And once upon a time I gave away about 700 (!) ordinary coins in exchange to one damaged medal which eventually appeared to be a home-made lead cast of the original medal - but I am still happy about that swap.
Coin identifications and valuations
Is it only me or the coin is really countermarked by a wide cross mark over the coat of arms?
Quote: "Czarina"I was wondering if basal to good grade coins is worth it to store in 2x2s i know thats like the cheapest way to store coins but it still does cost something, im just starting to place my coins to 2x2s but is now on hold because this question is bugging me, like "you ugly coins are you even worth it to place in this 2x2 mylar cardboard flip?" Hahaha id like to hear some opinions :)I had the same question a while ago and it seems that I've got an answer - at least for myself. Good and shiny coins go to 2x2 cardbord/mylar flips and the rest including those I would like to eventually replace with the better copies go either in 2x2 plastic flips or in 2x2 paper envelopes. This way you can store all of your coins in one box and you can save some space and money by putting more than one coin in a flip or an envelope. Just make sure that both your plastic flips and paper envelopes are made of the archival quality materials - means no PVC in plastic a[...]
Coin identifications and valuations
Yes, it is in relief though because of the mirror finish it was not very easy to catch it on a photo. Actually, it's a first time I ever saw or even heard of such defects on proof coins - they suppose to go through VERY rigorous quality control.
OK, I did a quick Google search and some reading and yes, it is feasible. It's a modern approach to the very old "ping test" and is based on the fact that "Base metal coins will sound duller and their ring will be shorter -- much like the difference between clinking crystal versus glass champagne flutes". It seems that it is (theoretically) possible to find several resonance frequencies combination of which will tell you if the coins is made of silver or other metal. Bullion Test app uses 3 frequencies for each test and has a small database for the different bullions, both silver and gold though in case of silver coins the task is more complicated - one needs to take into account the wear of the coin, different mints, minor differences in silver composition from one year to another, etc - you name it. •
So, my envision of what needs to be done in order to create such a database is as follows: •
- a reasonable number of original coins from different ye[...]
Thanks a lot for the information, though it means (for me) that now I have to find those 50 and 100 escudos
I've checked about a dozen of Russian catalogs issued within last 30 years - sorry, not a single mentioning of any proof or even proof-like issued in 1962. I believe what you have is a coin minted by brand new dies and handled properly to avoid any nicks and scratches.
Je recherche pour 1 euro et 2 euros (commemo et non) en TTB et plus. Echange contre mes doubles, envoi par lettre simple.
Looking for 1 Euro (preferably XF and higher) and 2 Euros (regular and commemorative, VF+ and higher) of all countries and all years. Swap for my doubles, and non-registered mail only.
Quote: "stefandobyy"Looks like something from the likes of those : •
But my clues end here ...The second link is spot on though the information on the Numista page is very brief and doesn't reflect an almost indefinite number of variants of the coin
Just a friendly suggestion - I think that the indication of the grade and the price for ALL your swap coins may help. At least it would help me to decide which coins I should contact you about.
Reason number 1: they are not interested in your coins. Though Numista might show that the potential partner might be interested in, let's say, 50 of your coins, in reality he might not be interested in them at all. Want to check it? Right now Numista tells me that you might be interested in 42 of my coins. And how many would you really select if we were swapping? •
Reason number 2: people do not visit Numista site very often or are way too busy to do a swap. Some have numismatics rather low on their priority list (especially during the summer) and are not really dying to have an extra swap right now. •
Reason number 3: people got a negative experience from previous swaps and prefer to swap only with someone they know and trust. Or swap within their own country/continent only. •
My personal statistics: 109 completed swaps for more that 150 offers denied without any discussion and more than 50 offers denied after some discussion. My personal record - 7 successful sw[...]
I am open for a swap - please have a look at my swap list and let me know.
I am reshaping my collection and made an executive decision to part with thee contemporary Canadian coins. Prices are indicated below, plus actual shipping. I can send them by regular mail at your own risk or by registered mail – you decide. Payment by PayPal. •
$3 dollar Bronze coin - Canada: An Allegory (2013), 36mm, Mintage: 15000 – US$27.00 •
$20 Fine Silver Coin - Autumn Bliss (2013), 38mm, Mintage: 7500 – US$100.00 •
Not in Numista catalog yet, link to Royal Canadian Mint - http://www.mint.ca/store/coin/1-oz-fine-silver-coin-autumn-bliss-mintage-7500-2013-prod1700004?rcmiid=link#.Vz0ICb6SYj8 •
$100 Fine Silver Coin - Bison Stampede (2013), 40mm, Mintage: 50000 – US$100.00 •
So, 1937 silver crown KM# 857 is the last circulation silver crown, right? Anyone has it (circulated, preferably in XF) for swap or trade? I am looking for it to complete my mini-collection of UK circulation silver ...
Please have a look at my swap list and let me know if you find something you like.
Je recherche les pièces suivantes en Superbe (SUP) pour améliorer ma collection . Veuillez s.v.p. noter que je déjà ai toutes ces pièces en TB ou TTB donc je suis en recherche de SUP seulement . Je cherche n'importe quelle année, juste une pièce par KM # . •
L'échange contre mes doubles . •
Algérie – 1 dinar - KM#104 (1972), KM#112 (1983), KM#117 (1987) •
Belgique – 1 franc – KM#89 (en français, 1922-1934), KM#90 (en néerlandais, 1922-1935), KM#120 (Belgie Belgique, 1939-1940), KM#127 (Belgique-Belgïe, 1941-1947), KM#128 (Belgïe-Belgique, 1942-1947) •
Brésil – 1 cruzeiro KM#558 1942-1956), 1 real – KM#652a (2002-2014) •
Émirats arabes unis – 1 dirham – KM#6.1, 1393-1409 (1973-1989) •
Espagne – 1 peseta – KM#767 (1944), KM#775 (1946-1963) •
France – 1 franc – KM#876 (1920-1927), KM#885 (bronze-aluminium, 1931-1941), KM#885a (aluminium, légère, 1941-1959), KM#902 (lourde, 1942-1943), KM#902 (légère, 1942-1944) •
I have four coin cards with the full set of UNC coins "War of 1812" and would like to sell them for very special Numista price USD$ 12.00 each. Below is the general picture of the card and the scan of the real set you will get. •
Shipment (regular letter at your own risk) in Canada is $2.00, to USA - $3.00 and to the rest of the world - $5.50. If you prefer registered letter, you have to add $12.00 - sorry but this is the official rate of the Canada Post :-( •
Bonjour à tous, •
Je recherche pour échange des coffrets de BE, BU et FDC contre mes doubles. Je suis intéressé par tous les pays sauf le Canada, Etats-Unis et Israël. •
I am trying to get rid of all my doubles - please check my swap list to see if you are interested in anything. All prices are negotiable. •
Alternatively, can swap my coins for your UNC mint sets of any country excluding Canada and USA.
An article about Canadian $1000 bills: •
1771 Russia copper rouble (aka "Sestrtoretsk rouble") - 78mm diameter, 35mm thick •
I support the idea of the optional "ID verification" and would easily verify my identity
In my opinion, Numista administration does next to nothing to prevent such cases. It's not the first case, it happens quite regularly and will continue to deteriorate if no action is taken. Moreover, by downplaying the cases of frauds and silencing those who have suffered the administration actually encourages other scumbags to do it again. •
What to do? It's quite clear. •
If Numista administration doesn't want to have any responsibility for what is going on between the members, they should put together a properly written Legal Disclaimer on that subject and pin it on the top of "Swaps and Trades" section of the Forum. Preferably in capital letters and with a button "I have read and agreed with the terms" that each member has to press in order to participate in any swaps. Caveat emptor! At least there will be no false sense of security and everybody will know that he/she is on his own. •
In case if Numista administrati[...]
Looking for New Zealand and Australia 1 dollar coins in XF(+)-AU-UNC condition. Circulating coinage, non-circulating commemorative and proofs - will take them all. Swap for the coins from my swap list (and thank you but no, I don't buy any coins at the moment). •
Would prefer a large swap to save on postage.
Quote: "Jarcek"OMG! You are so awesome all of you! Of course it can send more than 20mb Try to register on twirpx first and if it doesn't work PM me where should I send the pdf file.
I think you can safely bet that the "coinage" was 100 rather than 1000. My educated guess is that it was kind of honorary medal for those who has significantly contributed to the development of the Khabarovsk region and the medal was (probably) ordered or authorized by the regional government. What makes this medal to stand out is real silver, in almost all cases all such honorary medals were made of anodized aluminum or - in best case scenario - of bronze.
I would have serious doubts, too. Though the wear look quite natural, I don't like the color of the coin and - especially - the black areas around "NAPOLEON" and under the effigy. Looks like artificially blackened (antiqued) coin. I might be wrong though. •
What about the weight and dimensions?
I agree, this is part of fun. Especially for me - I am very "organized" person and like to keep things in excellent order. •
What is your experience with the coin envelopes? Did you use 2x2 (50mm x 50mm) or larger? Any pros and cons? You see, I am considering to keep my "small ones" in boxes, sorted by country and than by KM and in the mixture of 2x2 folders (for better coins) and 2x2 coin envelopes (for ordinary ones). I believe that in this way I can try to "harmonize" the storage of such a diverse mix and maybe save some money and space by placing several small coins of the same KM in one 2x2 envelope. Boxes for 2x2 are available in various sizes and if worse come to worst I can use just about any flat cardboard box with the self-made dividers to keep flips and envelopes in rows. •
Absolutely gorgeous Münzkabinett and I envy you! I wish I had enough coins that are worth such a treatment! •
Look at the second coin, left picture. Well worn image and absolutely pristine rim? Definitely fake.
OK, than I'll stick to the modern RF commemoratives instead... •
Just got an email - my trip to Moscow is postponed for at least 6 months... Thanks to all for the info anyhow...
Swaps and trades
I have 1974S (proof), 1977S (proof) and all six variant of 1976 - P, D (in UNC) and S (proof) in both Type 1 and Type 2. I would prefer to swap them for circulating silver but you can also buy them.
Quote: "quisques"I have three list of coins for sell •
World coins ( about 6000 differents, 250 countries ) •
Euro circulation coins ( about 1000 differents )( not finished, even without prices ) •
Euro commemorative and Bu sets, near of 1000 items. •
If anyone is interested in lists, send me a PM with your address email, and listings that interest youPlease send the World coins list to me, too. •
I've done it many times, too - and no remorse whatsoever... many people collect proof coins but not proof sets... •
If you get spare "small 1s" (1 cent, etc.) or "big 1s" (like 1 dollar, etc) from those sets, let me know, I am always interested.
It has small cavities (pores) around the eagle - a tell tell sign of a cast coin. I am sure it's a fake.
Quote: "doc_man"The most popular site is Allegro. I have some Livonia if u are interested.Do Allegro sellers send coins to other countries?
Quote: "xblamecanadax"LOL! •
Cause I don't care about silver and gold! •
Maybe if you read the article again, you'll have a better understanding! •
Don't be a hater glykan, i'm fairly sure it impresses no one •
Relax Guy •
OK, I hear you (seems that we've got yet another ignorant youngster...) •
Ah-h, yes, almost forgot - I am not "a hater", I am "a laugher" .
It seems that some of the non-circulating Canadian quarters make it in to circulation - I've also got a colored non-circulating one in my change last year. It was this one: •
Does Numista have an option to block user by IP address? I think it would be the best way to stop the cheater.
I do understand your idea of having fun collecting some coins without spending any real money - but here is a thing: the coins you are looking for to complete your collection are already way beyond such "fun and free" collecting. They do have certain market value and people who have them expect to get something of more or less the same value, whether "collecting" value or monetary value. •
My point is that since you are looking for rather uncommon coins you have to offer something of equal value, otherwise it might be VERY difficult to find someone who would agree to swap his/her 1923 Canadian penny ($35 for G-4 grade) for a handful of very common US wheat pennies (about 10 pieces per dollar).
Quote: "ALLRED1950" Sorry Glykan I donk think I said thank you. Thank you very much. •
yours darylYou are welcome.
I can offer you a set of Canadian circulation colored quarters - PM me if interested •
Quote: "dptashny"You have some that I need but not at the value of these coins. Do you want to do a swap with other coins?Yes, if you find in my list something interesting for you.
Voulez-vous échanger votre royales françaises pour des pièces d'argent canadiens contemporains?
Quote: "ngdawa"If they're VF or higher I'm interested OK, when you figure out which years/mints you are still missing, let me know, I have them from VF to UNC and some in proof.
Continuing Peter's theme of the coins with the "foreign" inserts, here are two of my favorite Canadian coin I acquired in 2015: •
one with the insert of mokume gane (special layered metal for jewellery making): •
and one with the insert made of genuine Canadian jade: •
The last but not the list piece of advise (learned it myself hard way) - never mix different kind of light in one setting. For example - don't use old tungsten lightbulbs with newer fluorescent or LED at the same time. Or the ambient light from the window with some added artificial light. Moreover, pay attention to what is written on the fluorescent or LED lightbulb packages - nowadays they come in all kind of light colors, I've seen them from 2800K up to 6500K. The ideal would be special lightbulbs from a professional photo store, but they will cost you an arm and leg...
Some statistics from BBC - minimal wage salary versus essential needs •
Quote: "muzz0000" •
Quote: "glykan"I am looking for colored circulation coins from all countries except Canada. Will swap them for colored Canadian quarters. •
Anyone interested?hi- i can swap a NZ one if we can build a trade around it- MurrayMurray, If you mean NZ 50c The Spirit of Anzac - I already have it thank to your courtesy. Or there are other NZ coloUred coins I am not aware of?
I completely agree with Houseofham - this is exactly what I meant. I can only add that even if the image of the coin can be considered as a subject (or object?) of copyright, even than this copyright has to be clearly claimed. For example, by inserting a watermark or a signature of the copyright holder in to image or in any other way. Otherwise, how can one proof that the image I use is the image I took from someone's website without his/her permission? And what if I took somebody's crapy point-and-shoot image, spent a good deal of time and have made it really representative of the coin? Should I consider this improved image as my own copyright?
Quote: "Messiah2012"Are they free?! I'll take themMy mistake, I actually meant some kind of exchange but didn't convey the message properly... A couple of shiny 1 Euro coins (any country, any year) would do...
Quote: "ALM"Bonjour •
erreur de traduction : •
PROOF = ESSAI ou EPREUVE •
et non pas PREUVE dans le cas présent !Merci, •
vous avez raison, c'est pas "preuve" - mai c'est pas "essai" également. •
"En numismatique, Belle épreuve (ou BE) désigne la qualité caractérisant une monnaie dont le relief est mat et le fond comme un miroir. La qualité « Belle Epreuve » correspond à l’anglais PRF (Proof) ou encore à l’allemand PP (Polierte Platte, Spiegelglanz). En Suisse, on utilise le terme de « Flan Bruni » (FB) pour la désigner" https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belle_%C3%A9preuve_%28numismatique%29 •
Essai : pièce portant ou non le mot ESSAI. Il s'agit d'une frappe particulière, en série limitée, non destinée à la circulation et qui peut être fabriquée pour diverses raisons : essai technique (métal, coins, etc.), essai de projet (lors d'un concours pour [...]
Maybe I was simply lucky but with a dozen of pounds of "world mix" I've bought I received some decent VF to VF+ Jordan, no Botswana whatsoever, a damn good deal of modern Indian coins from XF to AU condition, as well as excessive number of UNC Slovenia (1, 2 and 5 tolarjev). At the same time all Tanzania coins were so seriously damaged that most of them went directly to the garbage bin.
Depends on how big is the bent. I have some success with the slightly bent coins using a special tool, Parallel Pliers with Nylon Jaws - your local hardware store should have it and it looks like this: •
If not, than the regular (non-parallel) pliers with nylon jaws may be available in your craft store (jewelry making section). Don't try to straighten the coin in one move - but instead apply little pressure, turn the coin, press again, etc. •
But if the bent is significant - Blasi is absolutely right - than the metal is stretched and you can do next to nothing...
Here are my 2 cents on Russian postal service: it is simply unreliable. The weakest link is - as usual - local post offices and local postmen - almost all losses happen at the final stage of the delivery. Plus, the moral presumptions in this country are very different from those in developed world and you shouldn't trust every trading partner to the same extent as you would do in many other countries. •
All in all - if you send by registered mail (and say in custom forms that those are tokens/demonetized currency) - you have a good chance that it will arrive safely. If you try to save on postal fee and send by ordinary letter - you should understand that there is about 70% chance that it will never reach your addressee (or he will claim that it didn't reach him).
Yes, the mirror background is what confused me - in my (numismatically) unexperienced mind the combination of the mirror background with the frosted image was always equal to the proof grade. •
Live and learn... •
Just BTW, do you know that Royal Canadian Mint also issues a "reversed proof" = frosted background + mirror image (effigy). They call it Specimen...
How much is 5 lati 1932? Any chance of exchange or sell only?
Quote: "nthn"Do you think it is still silver?I seriously doubt that. In the best case scenario it's silver-plated.
(eug) Gene, •
I guess you mean Mengli Giray I, khan of Crimea in 1467, 1469—1475 and 1478—1515 - but at that time Crimea wasn't really a part of Golden Horde, in contrary it was in a state of war with it. •
As far as I know, there is no any decent catalog of the coin from that period and that territory, and we still have to wait for somebody to put all those 6000+ coins in one place... You can try some Russian numismatic forums, you might be pleasantly surprised with the volume and quality of information there. •
Essor Prof, •
According to the Canadian coin "bible" , "Charlton Standard Catalog of Canadian Coins", all 1 cent coins from 1982 to 1996 were made of bronze, not copper. And the "bible" doesn't mention any variations in the metal composition for 1996 issue. Or any other variations of 1996 at all - it's damn boring year for the collectors. •
Personally, I've seen 1982-1996 cents in all kind of colors, from bright yellowish to chocolate brown. So, if you really believe that your coin is made of brass, you might need some analytical data to prove that the Charlton is wrong...
Quote: "ngdawa"in January they (belarus) were considering a 500,000 rubloŭ note, so why would the issue coins at all? and why 1, 2 and 5 kopeks? •
the plans of belarussian coins have been since 2009, and prototypes have been made for 5, 10, 20 and 50 kopeks as well as 1 rubiel. slovakia offered to mint them, but still nothing have happened. mostly because of inflation.My guess is that they initially planned the denomination back in 2009 but due to economic instability (or for some other reason) decided to postpone it. As you might now, western economic sanctions against Belarus are about to be lifted and probably - again, this is my educated guess - now Belarus decided that it's a good time to do the denomination. •
If you ask me, such denominations have more "moral" effect rather then real economic effect. On the other hand, it also serves to drastically decrease the volume of the cash on the "black market" since those who[...]
Quote: "nthn"Could you PM me other master's club offerings? •
Other Master's club pre-orders are silver commemoratives - from 1/2 oz to half a kilogram
If you read Russian, have a look at these 2 links with general info on identification of what is called "куфические дирхемы" in Russian numismatic literature. Surprisingly, a lot of them is found in Russia (who would think!), mostly in the buried treasures of pre-Mongol period. •
Quote: "nthn"Yes, $10-15. From the mint they are face value, $2.50 CAD, about $1.80 USD. They are going for A LOT! That is why I would rather have them from the mint directly. •
Unlike other Canadian (circulation) commemorative quarters, this one is relatively uncommon. Yes, in theory they were available directly from the mint - but for a couple of days only and one had to order them well in advance. Despite of the announced coinage of 13 million (6.5 per each colored and plain version), they also seem to be washed away from the circulation very fast and I still have to find a colored one in my change. So, forget about $1.80 USD per 10-pack - nowadays they go well above their face value. I didn't check eBay recently but a couple of months ago they were around CAD$2 a piece...
Quote: "nthn"I would be interested in Tennessee, Wisconsin, Kentucky and Iowa state quarters. Can I get these individually?Sorry, all 25c in this lot are from 1971 to 1998 which means that there is no state quarters. On the other hand, I just added some state quarters from the mint sets to my swap list, please check if they are what you are looking for. •
I also added a lot of US proof coins to my swap list - just in case if somebody is interested...
OK, here are the recent Canadian coins . Allegory of Canada (copper, silver and gold versions): •
and a series of silver coins with allegories that had been used on Canadian banknotes: •
Quote: DutchgalegoSomeone here that have the 1967 confederation serie complete? •
I did give up on the 20 dollar golden one. Far to expensive in Holland, my wife would kill me! I have a full 1967 (Confederation) PL mint set - still in original pliofilm, with the envelope and certificate (or, rather paper envelope insert) - for sale or swap for silver (for XF/AU/UNC condition only). And I also have several coins from the same set (PL condition), they come individually and in 2x2 holders. For those not familiar - Canadian mint PL set is actually a set made out of business strike coins but with less mint marks than regular coins.
Such a pity... OK, I'll do it old-fashioned way...
The way of this seal to your place might be rather simple. I am sure that back in 1878 there was quite a number of Polish immigrants in your area and there was an established postal service between Poland and at least some cities of South Africa (though it seems that Johannesburg itself appeared a bit later). So the seal might have come directly from Warsaw to some place near you and was saved by someone just because it was rather unusual thing... •
And just to wrap up this story: the letter from Poland to South Africa in 1878 would come with the stamp exactly like this one from my collection - 8 kopek is for the international letter, and the postmark is definitely the one from Warsaw though the last digit of the year is missing ... •
Which years are they?
Full list is now ready for those interested. In total this mini collection has 62 countries, 263 coins (263 different KM#). Grades - 181 coins are in XF and higher grade, only 2 or 3 coins are in grade F and the rest is VF.
But maybe someone else does... I was actually asking pnightingale...
Let me add some terminology (and confusion) used in Canada. Most of this information is from Royal Canadian Mint and concerns modern coinage only. •
Proof - special issue with low mintage, polished dyes, coin is minted in 2 strikes (not a single strike as for the circulation coins), only manual handling, very rigorous quality control. •
PL (proof-like) is simply "creme de la creme" of the ordinary business strike - PL coins are minted on the brand new dyes with more gentle handling (no bags!) and are finally sealed by mint in to plastic blisters. Usually sold as a yearly set of the regular coinage (for ridiculous price) or in sets of 10 for face value (for Canadian residents only and you have to order it directly from mint). •
Coins from rolls are often called BU (brilliant uncirculated). •
There is also something called "specimen" but don't ask me what in a heck they mean by this - my uneducated guess is that it is (probably) s[...]
Quote: Flukeyeah, make a list of pennies and I can tell you if I have them and the gradeSent you a PM
What about some "0.01 swaps" within our club? I just posted my offer here: •
I have 3 sets of Canadian cents 2000-2012, all circulated, XF red, no big spots or fingerprints - in the other words, as good as you can get from circulation. Scan of one of these sets is below. •
Anyone wants to swap them for the same quality Euro cents (no Germany and no repeats, please) or recent UK decimal pennies? •
I also have a lot of regular circulated Canadian cents from 1970 to 2012 (major varieties, VF and higher), so if you are interested in yearly run or just some coins to fill the gaps, let me know. I am always looking for 1 cent, 1 penny, 1 pfennig, 1 centime, 1 sentavo, 1 paisa, 1 fils, etc. coins from all over the world. •
P.S. Sorry, an error in the scan - two 2009 coins instead of 2009 and 2010. My bad...
Once upon a time the Canadian custom checked my parcel with the world coins and they come up with very nice definition of what it is, they called it "non-legal tenders". Which, I believe is a correct term and it draws a line between actual currency and already non-circulating (demonetized) coins. In this way, your shipment is not under any restriction unless you are sending good deal of "legal tenders" (= circulating money) or precious metals. •
And yes, if you don't want them to be stolen or refused, never ever call them "coins".
Are you interested in this? •
Or that? •
Quote: iknw07554Don't you just love Canadian coins - coloured glowing whatever next - makes other countries seem dull.Not to forget colorful niobium coins, exquisite selective gold-plated coins and venetian glass decorated coins - of course I love them! Though it seems that my wallet doesn't
Quote: nthnWe looked at that, but thought we had to buy the whole $50 worth at once. If we can buy by the pound, Judah and I will both get some. How much is it per pound?Sent you a PM
Quote: eitan190See anything you want in my swap list?Sent you a PM
Redsmithstudios, thanks a lot - I like this idea!
Just wondering if someone is interested in a swap of proof or mint-sealed proof-like coins. I have some Canadian and USA sets and separate coins taken from such sets and would gladly swap them to the same coins (sets) from other countries. •
PM me if interested.
Yes, you are right - this is a later copy made by T. Ivanov. Good luck with the price though - the one that sold was of MUCH better quality than yours.
I recently read in the news that Google may be forced to disclose their search algorithm and maybe than I'll learn more on how to use it. •
With the medals - unfortunately they don't look like original issues. My uneducated guess is that they are smaller (26mm instead of original 40 to 55mm) copies of the rare papal medals. •
Some of such copies fetch $8 to $12 a piece or around $50 per set on eBay and still are rather uncommon items though.
Anybody interested in "Hawaii dollar" souvenir token set and a couple of medallions? Looking for uncommon minimal value coins or silver. Or just cash so I can buy those... •
I have a good deal of US proofs, 5c and 10c between 1971 and 2007. In exchange I am looking for proof-like (mint sealed only) or proofs of the smallest denominations (1 cent, 1 penny, 1 centavo, 1 pfennig, etc.) from all countries except Canada and USA. •
PM me if interested.
OK, here are my 2 cents on the coin cleaning - though strictly personal. •
First of all, there are several types of the cleaning and I have an impression that some people simply mix them up. In my view, cleaning may mean: •
- removing dirt, sweat, oil and other foreign substances from the surface of the coins (with the patina being untouched and unaffected) •
- removing corrosion (e.i. ugly corrosion spots) with the minimal effect on patina •
- partial or complete removal of the patina to make coins bright and shiny •
- removing earthy deposits and heavy corrosion from unearthed coins to make them recognizable •
And, of course, all this thing often overlap with each other and can make more or less serious cleaning very tricky. •
I personally do some very gentle cleaning (dirt only!) because for me a dirty coin looks [...]
Quote: harry213Oh I almost forgot to mention there is a well known forum for more help on the information you are seeking. here's the link. •
Let me know if you have any other questions.Thanks, I'll dig through it - the forum seems to be very informative
Thanks, I have to agree with you that my "rainbow" looks very differently from those examples.
Swaps and trades
Me - provided that you have 1 grosz coins and are interested in Canadian coins
I have several sets of Canadian 1 cent coins and would like to know if anybody is interested in them. There are 43 coins in this almost complete set from 1972 to 2012 (the 2012 was the very last year of Canadian 1cent coinage - RIP, little penny ). 1990 and 1996 are missing due to low coinage, while 2003, 2006, 2011 and 2012 are represented by two coin variants each. The coins are from VF to AU condition (mostly in XF), absolutely no dings, scratches or corrosion. About 40% coins are red, the rest has normal patina. Small spots may occur though - for example, 1997 and 2010 are particularly prone to have small black dots on almost all of the circulation coins. If there is any interest for these coins, I can take a high resolution picture and send it to those interested. •
In exchange I am looking for all and any coins of minimal denomination - 1 pfenning, 1 cent, 1 penny, 1 sentavo, 1 santim, 1 groshen, 1 paisa, 1 milliem, etc. - you name it. Fractional (for example,[...]
Swaps and trades
Thanks, but I've already got two of those three..
Being a Canadian coin collector, I do have some commemoratives - but definitely not ALL of them. Which ones are you interested in particular - lightly circulated (let's say in AU condition), issued for circulation but uncirculated, collectible issues, or gold/silver commemorative? Drop me a line and we can chat about it.